How to Grow Anubias Successfully
Anubias is the plant most aquarists fall in love with first. It is nearly indestructible, thrives in low light, needs no CO2, and its thick, leathery leaves shrug off the attention of fish that destroy more delicate plants. If you can keep a fish alive, you can keep Anubias. This guide covers everything you need to grow it successfully — from attaching the rhizome to avoiding the one mistake that kills more Anubias than anything else.
Meet the Anubias Family
Anubias is a genus of slow-growing rhizome plants from West Africa. Popular varieties include Anubias barteri, the compact Anubias nana and nana "petite," the tall Anubias congensis, and the textured Anubias coffeefolia. They all share the same care needs, so once you can grow one, you can grow them all. Anubias behaves much like its cousins Java fern and Bucephalandra — three rhizome plants that form the backbone of most beginner-friendly aquascapes.
The One Rule That Matters Most: Never Bury the Rhizome
This is the single most important thing to know about Anubias. The rhizome is the thick, horizontal green stem that leaves and roots grow from. If you bury it in substrate, it will rot and the plant will slowly die. Instead, attach Anubias to hardscape — driftwood, rock, or decor — and let only the roots make contact while the rhizome stays in open water.
If you have already planted Anubias in gravel and it seems unhappy, gently lift it out, leave the rhizome above the substrate, and anchor it to something instead.
How to Attach Anubias
Because the rhizome can't be buried, you secure Anubias to hardscape using one of these methods:
- Super glue gel: Dab aquarium-safe cyanoacrylate gel onto a dry spot of the rhizome and press it to clean, dry rock or wood for several seconds. Fast and permanent.
- Thread or fishing line: Tie the rhizome loosely to the hardscape. The roots grip within a few weeks, then you can remove the thread.
- Wedging: Tuck the rhizome into a crevice between rocks and let the roots anchor naturally.
You can also let Anubias attach to a sponge filter, intake, or a small stone you move around until you find the right spot.
Lighting: Low and Slow
Anubias is a low-light champion. It actually prefers shaded or moderate light and is a perfect fit for tanks that aren't high-tech. Under bright, high-output lighting, the slow-growing leaves become magnets for algae — especially black beard algae along the leaf edges. Placing Anubias in the shadow of taller plants or hardscape is a smart move. It pairs naturally with other low-light aquarium plants and slots right into the routine described in our low-tech planted tank guide.
Do You Need CO2 or Fertilizer?
No — Anubias grows fine with no added CO2, which is exactly why it's recommended among the easiest beginner plants. Adding CO2 will speed up its already-slow growth, but it is never required. If you decide to go high-tech later, our planted aquarium CO2 systems guide walks through the options.
Because the rhizome isn't in substrate, Anubias feeds mostly through the water column, so a liquid all-in-one fertilizer is ideal. See our fertilizer dosing guide, and if leaves start yellowing or developing holes, check the why are my plants turning brown troubleshooting tips.
Water Parameters
Anubias is extremely forgiving and adapts to a wide range of typical tropical community conditions. As a general guideline, stable water in the normal tropical temperature range and ordinary community pH and hardness will keep it happy. As always, stability matters more than hitting an exact number. If you want to confirm your numbers, we offer free water testing in-store.
Algae on Anubias
Because Anubias grows so slowly, each leaf stays in the tank for many months — long enough to collect algae if conditions are off. The fix is rarely scrubbing; it's reducing light intensity, improving water flow, and keeping nutrients balanced. Some keepers do a gentle wipe of older leaves during maintenance. A planted tank with healthy fast-growers and a sensible photoperiod keeps Anubias clean on its own.
Propagating Anubias
Propagation is easy and satisfying. Once the rhizome is long enough, use clean scissors to cut it into sections — each piece needs at least three or four leaves and a healthy length of rhizome. Attach each cutting to new hardscape and you have a brand-new plant. For a full walkthrough, see how to propagate aquarium plants. Mature Anubias also occasionally flowers underwater, which is harmless and a fun sign of a healthy plant.
Routine Care
Anubias is about as low-maintenance as it gets. Trim away any old or damaged leaves at the base of the stem using the technique in our plant trimming guide. Keep up with regular water changes and brush detritus off the broad leaves so they stay clean. Unlike fast stem plants, Anubias rarely needs trimming for size — mostly just tidying.
New Anubias can sometimes drop a leaf or two while adjusting to your tank. If melt becomes widespread rather than the odd leaf, our guide on why aquarium plants melt can help. And if you're quarantining new plants for pests, here's how to do an alum dip.
Where to Get Healthy Anubias
A firm green rhizome and intact leaves are the signs of a healthy plant. We hand-select and quarantine our plants before sale. If you're local, you can find Anubias and other live plants — plus hands-on advice — at our Cheyenne store. Here's where to buy live aquarium plants in Wyoming.
Final Thoughts
Anubias rewards a hands-off approach. Attach it to hardscape, keep the light gentle, never bury the rhizome, and otherwise leave it alone. In return you get a tough, beautiful plant that lasts for years and works in almost any freshwater setup. Questions about choosing the right variety? Stop by Tropical Treasures Wyo in Cheyenne or reach out — we're glad to help.